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Hunting and Fishing Paradise
Montana's
Bob Marshall Wilderness
by John Holt
The fiery golds, sharp blues, and crisp
greens of a Montana autumn shimmered in the clear air and
bright sunlight as I wound along a gravel road through timbered
mountains and sheer rock cliffs that towered above me. The
smell of pine and sage was on the wind. I was heading for
the Seven Lazy P Guest Ranch located northwest of Choteau
in western Montana, well off the beaten path along the North
Fork of the Teton River backed up against the massive Rocky
Mountain Front. Vast, northern high plains stretched in
benign indifference behind me for hundreds of miles while
wave after wave of rugged mountains roared off into the
western horizon ahead of me.
An early October snowfall accentuated
the outcroppings and crags of Teton Peak in the distance
as I rounded a bend in the road, crossed a bridge that spanned
a beaver pond full of jumping trout, and wound my way through
a dense stand of large pines to the main lodge at the ranch.
I spied Chuck Blixrud loading food and other supplies for
an extended trip into the adjacent Bob Marshall Wilderness.
Along with his wife Sharon, Blixrud owns and operates the
Seven Lazy P. They offer riding and fishing at the ranch
and lead pack trips into the scenic Bob Marshall Wilderness
for fishing and hunting in season.
"We'll be packing out for ten
days tomorrow morning," said Blixrud. "The hunting
season in the Bob Marshall is already under way, and I have
things pretty much under control for now. The rest of the
guests will be coming in later today."
From the time when the high trails
are first clear of snow in early summer until the brutal
storms of fall close things down, the Blixruds run a steady
stream of riders and pack horses in and out of the Wilderness.
This is hard work, but as Chuck said, speaking for both
himself and Sharon, "We've got the operation down,
and we wouldn't consider doing anything else. We both love
the life." And who can blame them? spending weeks at
a time in some of the most spectacular and unspoiled country
in the world is a dream many of us have. Actually to make
a living in the wild is the dream taken a step farther.
The Bob Marshall Wilderness has more
than 1.5 million acres, larger than the state of Delaware,
and is named after the pioneering forester and conservationist
who devoted his short life to preserving the country's wildlands.
The region is a land of rugged, ice-scoured peaks, the tallest
being Rocky Mountain at 9,392 feet along the western boundary.
Snowfields and small glaciers are found year- round in the
Bob Marshall.
More than one hundred lakes are located
in the high country. Most of them are filled with trout,
some to the extent that their inhabitants have become stunted
due to overpopulation. The rivers, streams, and lakes provide
some of the finest fishing for west-slope cutthroat trout
anywhere. Bull trout over ten pounds, rainbow, brook trout,
and whitefish also abound in the Wilderness waters. The
Bob Marshall is home to quality, big-game hunting for trophy
elk, mule and white-tailed deer, Rocky Mountain goats, bighorn
sheep, moose, and black bear. Several hundred grizzlies
wander the Wilderness and are part of the Northern Rockies
Ecosystem that may support as many as 1,000 of the great
bears.
The Bob Marshall Wilderness lies east
of the Rocky Mountain trench. Geologists think that two
huge land masses collided there eons ago. The land was formerly
an inland sea that uplifted as a result of tremendous forces
about sixty million years in the past. Fossils are often
found embedded in the limestone thousands of feet above
sea level.
This area is considered a prime location
for gas and oil deposits, according to petroleum geologists,
and as a result, is under constant threat from commercial
interests, despite the wilderness designation. An example
was a Denver firm's request to plant explosive charges along
207 miles of seismic lines. The purpose was to generate
underground shock waves that could be plotted and used to
help locate potential oil and gas reserves. A firestorm
of protest led the Regional Forester in Missoula to reject
the application.
Most of the vast network of trails
was constructed around 1900 by rangers who patrolled the
area and watched for the first signs of forest fires from
lookout platforms located on ridge tops. Actually, the area
is more "wild" today than it was during the forties
when phone lines were strung through sections of the Wilderness.
These have since been torn down.
The interior of the Bob Marshall can
be reached in one day's hard riding, which is usually accomplished
by taking one of the three main travel corridors - Middle
Fork, South Fork, or the Sun. This includes climbing and
dropping over one or more wind-swept, rocky passes offering
views that take in miles and miles of mountains and forested
valleys.
Years ago, pack-trip parties often
included thirty or more riders, but the Forest Service has
limited the size of groups to a maximum of fifteen to help
reduce the impact of visitors on the fragile environment.
Use of the Wilderness has increased dramatically in recent
years. Around 10,000 individuals and an even larger number
of horses and pack animals travel through it annually. While
this does cause damage to trails and campsites, an increased
awareness of the problem has led to a renewed effort to
preserve the pristine nature of the area.
The Blixruds operate mainly in the
Sun River portion of the Wilderness, which includes the
famed Chinese Wall. This limestone feature towers 1,000
feet and runs north and south for many miles. Chuck and
Sharon offer a variety of trips in this region.
The Chinese Wall Trip offers fishing
on two rivers and one lake, traveling over Route Creek Pass
and camping on the North Fork of the Sun River. The next
day is an easy ride up the drainage to Basin Creek, which
provides excellent fishing for eager cutthroat trout that
rise readily to a dry fly. The trip runs along the base
of the Trilobite Range south to Pentagon Mountain, Dean
Lake, and Switchback Pass before dropping down over the
east side of the Continental Divide to camp below the Chinese
Wall.
To be honest, portions of all trips
contain some pitches along steep drop-offs that will raise
the hair on any acrophobiac's neck. "Sometimes we have
trips with all experienced riders, and we go along without
a hitch," says Blixrud. "But some inexperienced
riders fail to realize that these horses know the trail
better than anybody. I'll turn around and see someone clinging
for dear life to their saddle horn or maybe letting out
a little scream, but we haven't lost anybody yet."
The sounds of rushing water, wind slipping
through the tops of pine trees, and the cries of eagles
soaring in the thermals high above are ever present. Before
heading back, the group spends time along the Sun River,.
which provides excellent rainbow and cutthroat trout fishing.
A Sun River Trip is designed especially
for the fly fisherman who wants to experience superb angling
for wild trout. Also for the fisherman, the South Chinese
Wall Trip lasts eight to ten days. The White River-Flathead
Trip may take as long as twelve days. The South Fork of
the Flathead River is a gin-clear flow that offers plenty
of cover for chunky cutthroats that have little shyness
when it comes to hitting flies or spinners.
On a recent trip to the South Fork,
I was wading in just tennis shoes, cutoffs and a T-shirt
in the hot July sun. Trout rose to just about every cast,
and I lost myself in the rhythm of the fishing-so much so,
that I failed to notice that my wallet had dropped out of
my back pocket. Several months later after obtaining duplicate
licenses and I.D., I received a small package in the mail
from Georgia. A young boy had found my wallet later that
summer several miles downstream from the spot where I fished
and had returned it to me with a note saying, "There
was not any money in this when I found it on a gravel bar."
I knew he was telling the truth. Free-lance writers rarely
have any cash in their wallets.
Another Blixrud trip goes to the Middle
Fork Flathead Wilderness, which lies northwest of the Seven
Lazy P and south of Glacier National Park. This is also
a ten to twelve day ride.
But the Seven Lazy P is not just for
vacationers desiring a wilderness riding experience. Persons
who just want to relax and "get away from it all"
can lounge around camp, fishing, making use of the spa,
playing volleyball or horseshoes, and enjoying Sharon's
home-cooked meals three times a day. There is also an evening
bonfire when everyone tells tall tales and roasts marshmallows.
All of the cabins are spacious and
comfortable, heated by wood stoves or fireplaces. All but
one have running water. A central bathhouse serves that
cabin, and there are laundry facilities. All cabins have
electricity. Some have sleeping lofts and complete kitchens
for guests who wish to do some cooking.
The main lodge has a dining area as well
as a large room dominated by a massive stone fireplace.
Numerous windows offer splendid views of the surrounding
forest and mountains.
The Blixruds have horses that can accommodate
both the beginner and expert alike, and all of their equipment
is top-notch. All camps along the trail feature teepee tents
with floors and/or wall tents, stoves, folding tables, and
kitchen gear. Fresh meat is supplied for trips of up to
a week; for longer trips the outfit uses canned meats or
arranges to have fresh supplies dropped off at a prearranged
location.
The experienced angler will find challenging
fishing on the North Fork of the Teton, while the nearby
beaver ponds provide easier sport for rainbows and cutthroats.
For the fisherman, an ultra-light spinning rod, six-pound
test line, an assortment of small spinners and spoons will
suffice. For the fly fisherman, an eight-foot flyrod that
can handle a six- weight line is ideal. An assortment of
dry flies, nymphs, and streamers that includes Adams, Wulffs,
Humpys, Elk Hare Caddis, a grasshopper imitation of your
choice, Hare's Ear Nymphs, gray and brown nymphs, Montana
Nymphs, Muddler Minnows, and Royal Coachman will handle
most situations. A Sofa Pillow pattern is also handy when
stoneflies are hatching.
When You Go. No matter
what the time of year, it is a good idea to have plenty
of warm clothing. Even in July, nights around an evening's
fire can be chilly. Sunglasses, sunscreen, insect repellent,
and rain gear are essentials.
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